First Accessory Purchase: Roof Rack Cross Bars.

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When I bought roof rack cross bars for our Buick a while back, I didn’t think they would become such an essential part of how we travel. After owning them for a year, it’s safe to say I won’t buy another car without adding a set. With a couple of ratchet straps, I can haul just about anything we bring home from the store. One of my favorite examples was when we brought home a huge rug from HomeSense, strapped it to the top, and drove home without any issues. We also keep a roof basket that attaches to the bars, and it has completely changed the way we pack for vacations. Instead of stuffing every inch of the trunk, we can toss a big duffel bag or extra gear up top and enjoy the drive with some breathing room inside the car.

So naturally, when the Chevy Bolt came home, the first accessory I ordered was a set of cross bars. I went with the Wonderdriver cross bars on Amazon, which are rated for 220 pounds. They mount to the factory roof rails (if your Bolt has them) and the install couldn’t have been simpler. It took me about 15 minutes from opening the package to tightening the last screw. The kit even included some extra hardware and stick-on cushions that go between the brackets and the rails, which helps protect the car’s finish.

The best part is they don’t add any extra noise when driving. I was worried there might be a constant whistle on the highway, but after a couple of trips I haven’t noticed anything different compared to stock. Now we’ve got the flexibility to bring along bigger items again, just like with the Buick, and it feels like the car is more complete. For me, roof racks have gone from a nice-to-have to mandatory.

What Comes in the Chevy Bolt’s Emergency Trunk Kit

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My Bolt delivery has been delayed in delivery because the dealer (CarMax) noticed something important. The factory emergency kit was missing its Level 1 charger. Since that’s one of the core items that comes with the car, I thought it would be a good time to go over exactly what’s included in the kit, so other buyers can double-check theirs.

In the trunk, tucked into the storage area under the floor, the Bolt includes:

• Level 1 Charger (120V) — This plugs into a standard household outlet and provides slow charging in a pinch. Not a long-term charging solution, but essential for emergencies or when traveling somewhere without Level 2 charging.

• 12V Air Compressor — Plugs into the car’s 12V outlet and can inflate a low or flat tire enough to get you moving again.

• Tire Sealant Canister — Designed to work with the included compressor, this sealant can temporarily patch small punctures so you can get to a repair shop.

• Tow Hook Bolt — Screws into a hidden threaded port behind a removable cover on the bumper, allowing the car to be winched or pulled without damaging the frame.

• Flathead/Phillips Screwdriver — Primarily for removing the tow hook cover plate or other minor roadside fixes.

• Emergency Triangle — A reflective roadside warning triangle you can set behind the car to alert other drivers if you’re stopped, especially at night or in low visibility conditions.

Why It Matters to Check Your Kit

It’s worth inspecting your kit as soon as you get the car, especially if buying used. Items like the Level 1 charger or compressor are easy to misplace or forget after a previous owner has cleaned out the car. Replacing these through a dealer can be surprisingly expensive, and they’re good to have ready before you ever need them.

Small Upgrades Worth Considering

While the factory kit covers the basics, adding a few extra items can make you even more prepared: a tire plug kit, a small flashlight, gloves, a compact first aid kit, and even a portable jump starter (EVs still rely on a 12V battery for certain systems). For under $50 on Amazon you can find pre-made kits with most or all of these items.

The takeaway? The Chevy Bolt’s factory kit is well thought out, but only if it’s complete. Mine being missing the charger is an inconvenience, but it’s far better to find that out before delivery than when I’m stranded somewhere.

Image Courtesy: BrandEver chevybolt.org

Picking and Installing A Home Charger on 100-Amp Service

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When I bought my Bolt I knew I wanted the convenience of charging at home. The twist: my house has 100-amp service, and there’s a persistent internet myth that you must upgrade to 200-amp service to add a Level-2 charger. That isn’t true for the Bolt — with the right approach, 100-amp service is more than enough.

Disclaimer: I’m not an electrician — just an EV owner sharing my personal experience. Electrical work can be dangerous if done incorrectly. Always consult a qualified, licensed electrician before starting any electrical project. You are responsible for ensuring your work meets local building codes and safety requirements. I am not liable for any damages, injuries, or issues that may arise from attempting to replicate anything described here. 

After reading reviews and comparing features I went with the Emporia Classic. It hit the balance I wanted: not the cheapest, not the fanciest, but solid. The biggest benefit is that it's compatible with National Grid's off-peak program and can automatically schedule charging based on off peak hours. It charges reliably, has Wi-Fi and an app for scheduling and monitoring, and it offers both a plug (NEMA 14-50) option and a hardwire whip. Since my install was outdoors and I wanted a clean look, I chose the hardwire route.

Installation was straightforward because I had a lucky break: an abandoned hose spigot right above my electrical panel. I removed the spigot, mounted a single-gang outdoor electrical box, ran flexible conduit through the old hole, and pulled the properly sized wire to the panel. The Emporia hardware uses a ¾" threaded PVC conduit fitting which made connecting to the outdoor box easy and neat.

Why you don’t need 200A just to run a Bolt

A lot of people assume you need a 200-amp service for Level-2 charging — but the Chevy Bolt’s onboard AC charger limits it to roughly 32 amps (about 7.2–7.7 kW) on Level-2, so you don’t need a huge circuit to get useful charge overnight.

That was handy for me: I installed a 40-amp breaker for the charger circuit (a common choice), but I configured the Emporia to behave as if it were on a 30-amp circuit. In practice that gives me a safe buffer so the EV and the charger never try to pull the full 40A, while still topping the car overnight easily.

National Grid off-peak (what I enrolled in)

If you’re in Massachusetts and served by National Grid, they run an off-peak EV program that pays rebates for charging during designated off-peak hours. The program currently offers $0.05/kWh for off-peak charging in summer months (June 1–Sept 30) and $0.03/kWh in non-summer months (Oct 1–May 31). There’s also a one-time enrollment incentive in some rollouts. Charging must occur within Massachusetts and you generally enroll through the program portal or partner app. (Check National Grid for eligibility and the exact program window/dates — they publish full details).

A couple practical notes: confirm the exact off-peak hours for your account (they’re published by National Grid and can vary by program/version), enroll so your off-peak charging shows up in the program’s tracking tools, and set your charger schedule to charge during those windows for the rebate.

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Charging math (so you can see the real overnight numbers)

Assumptions I used (conservative & realistic):

• 2020-era Bolt usable battery capacity: ~60 kWh is a common conservative usable figure for many 2020 Bolts (some later replacements/upgrades push to ~66 kWh).

• Starting state of charge (SoC) for this example: 50%, so you need to add ~30 kWh to get to 100%.

• Charger/vehicle losses: account for ~10% charging overhead (heat/inefficiencies). I show results both without and with that 10% loss so you can see both ideal and realistic cases.

Power from a 240V circuit = 240 V × amps ÷ 1000 = kW.
So:

• 20 A → 240 × 20 / 1000 = 4.8 kW

• 30 A → 240 × 30 / 1000 = 7.2 kW

• 32 A → 240 × 32 / 1000 = 7.68 kW (Bolt is limited to ~7.2–7.7 kW by its onboard charger). 

HOURS to add 30 kWh (ideal, no losses)

• 20 A (4.8 kW): 30 ÷ 4.8 = 6.25 hours

• 30 A (7.2 kW): 30 ÷ 7.2 = 4.17 hours

• 32 A (7.68 kW): 30 ÷ 7.68 = 3.91 hours

HOURS to add 30 kWh with ~10% charging losses (realistic)

If we assume ~10% loss, you actually need about 33.3 kWh input (30 ÷ 0.9):

• 20 A (4.8 kW): 33.33 ÷ 4.8 ≈ 6.94 hours

• 30 A (7.2 kW): 33.33 ÷ 7.2 ≈ 4.63 hours

• 32 A (7.68 kW): 33.33 ÷ 7.68 ≈ 4.34 hours

Bottom line: even at the conservative 20-amp rate you’ll get a full 50%->100% overnight in under 7 hours (with losses). At 30A and 32A you’re easily done in a single overnight window (4–5 hours). That’s why the Bolt on a properly configured 30–32A L2 circuit is more than enough for daily commuting.

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Practical tips from my install

• If your charger supports setting a max breaker/amps (like the Emporia), set the charger lower than the breaker to keep a safety buffer. I used a 40A breaker and set the charger to run as if it were on 30A.

• Schedule charging during off-peak hours (National Grid) to capture rebates and lower per-kWh cost — the program’s tracking and rebate make this worthwhile.

• If you’re unsure about fitting conduit/wiring or local code, hire a licensed electrician. That money is well spent for a clean, safe install.

• Double-check connector and box sizes (Emporia uses a ¾" threaded PVC conduit fitting for the outdoor box on the unit I used) so your outdoor run is watertight and neat.